Oh pshaw, on Sun 04 Nov 2007 08:11:37a, MareCat meant to say...
Post by MareCatPost by Wayne Boatwright...was a family run restaurant in Cleveland that opened in 1927 and
closed sometime in the late 1990s. It was famous for several of its
dishes, the most notable probably being its "Brown Sauce". It was a
very meaty sauce with a robust hearty flavor and a color that looked
almost like brown gravy. Most people who ate it loved it, although I'm
sure it had its detractors.
I've never been able to find a recipe or succeed in many attempts at
duplicating the sauce. Many people ordered it with fresh sauteed
mushrooms added to the sauce.
It sounds delicious, Wayne. What did you do (specifically) during your
attempts to replicate the sauce?
You've probably read this before, but I found this in the NYSH FAQs (to
Q: If the Brown Sauce is a meat sauce, where's the meat?
A: A large quantity of meat is contained in this sauce. In staying with
the traditional texture, it is ground to nearly a pureed consistency. In
the early days, and until very recent time, meat at the New York
Spaghetti House was purchased in whole pieces and cut into servings by
the head chef. Then, the extra pieces of the leg of lamb, the fillet of
beef, the leg of veal, and the pork that were not suitable for a
required portion on an entrée were ground together finely and went into
making the brown sauce. Today, only high quality beef and pork are used
and, staying true to the original recipe, it too is ground very fine
into a pureed consistency after it has been cooked with the some spices,
onion, garlic and a small dash of red wine vinegar.
Mary
Thanks, Mary...
Well, the first time I tried making it was a few months after the
restaurant closed and there was no websigt or FAQ. I used ground beef,
ground veal, and ground pork, and an approach much like a bolognese sauce.
No tomatoes, but I did saute onion, garlic, carrot, and celery. I used
small amounts or oregano and basil, but I didn't know about the vinegar. I
believe I also added a small amount of red wine, and some beef stock.
The result was tasty, but definitely not "the sauce". The meat was still
too coarse and the flavor was wrong.
I didn't try it again until after the website and the FAQ. Sooo, I began
by using whole pieces of meat (the same combination), cutting it in
smallish pieces before cooking in beef stock. I repeated the same
assortment of vegetables, sauteed and added to the cooking meat. I put the
whole thing through the find plate of the meat grinder twice. I did add a
bit of red wine vinegar and did not add the wine. This attempt was much
better, but still not quite right.
I've tried it two more times since then, with basically the same approach,
but varying the balance of ingredients and spices, and putting it through
the meat grinder 3 and 4 times. I end up with a good sauce, but it still
doesn't measure up to what the restaurant made. I suppose it may be the
balance of ingredients. I do get the right consistency, and if I had never
tasted the restaurant's sauce, I would probably be very please with the
result.
I guess I just have to keep practicing. Or, just maybe, it was eating it at
the New York Spaghetti House that was the charm. :-)
Their frozen product available for purchase in the Cleveland area isn't as
good as mine.
--
Wayne Boatwright
(to e-mail me direct, replace cox dot net with gmail dot com)
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It's lonely at the top, but you eat better.